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Pattern drafting

Pattern ease calculator

Turns a body measurement into a garment measurement and then a per-piece drafting figure, keeping wearing ease and design ease apart.

The question this answers: “What measurement should the pattern piece actually be?”

Room to move and breathe.

How loose it is meant to look. A different thing.

Result

Finished garment measurement
105 cm
96 body + 9 ease.
Per pattern piece
26.3 cm
Divided across 4.
Per piece, with seam allowance
28.3 cm
Adds 1cm at each of two edges.
Ease breakdown
5 + 4 cm
Wearing, then design. Kept apart deliberately.

Worth knowing about this answer

  • Wearing ease and design ease are different quantities and this keeps them apart on purpose. Merging them is the commonest conceptual error in drafting.
  • Whether your blocks already include seam allowance is a decision to make once and write on the pattern. Adding it twice, or not at all, accounts for a great many garments that come out the wrong size.
  • These figures are geometry, not fit. Only a toile tells you whether the ease is in the right places.
Show the working
  1. Total ease5 + 49 cm
  2. Garment measurement96 + 9105 cm
  3. Per piece105 ÷ 426.3 cm
  4. With allowance26.3 + (1 × 2)28.3 cm

Finished garment measurement: 105 cm. Per pattern piece: 26.3 cm. Per piece, with seam allowance: 28.3 cm. Ease breakdown: 5 + 4 cm

Body measurement plus wearing ease plus design ease gives the finished garment measurement. That divided by the number of pieces gives the per-piece figure, and two seam allowances are added for the two cut edges.

  • The measurement divides evenly across the pieces, which is true for a simple bodice or trouser block and not for asymmetric designs.
  • Two cut edges per piece on the measured line.
  • Geometry, not fit. Only a toile tells you whether the ease is in the right places, and ease distributed wrongly fits worse than too little ease distributed well.
  • It cannot know whether your blocks already carry seam allowance. That is a decision to make once and write on the pattern.
  • Stretch fabrics work on negative ease and different rules; this is drafted for wovens.

Runs entirely in your browser — nothing you type is sent anywhere. Last reviewed 2026-08-15. More on Pattern drafting.